Knoydart Circuit by Paddle – A Wild Adventure in May 2025

In May 2025, I set off to complete the Knoydart Circuit by paddle—an epic route connecting Loch Nevis and Loch Morar in the Scottish Highlands. This was my third attempt at completing the full circuit, previously thwarted by—you guessed it—the legendary Scottish weather.

This time, however, the weather gods smiled on us.

Why Knoydart?

Everyone seems to have heard of Inverie, the iconic village accessible only by boat or on foot. Community action, coupled with a growing social media presence, has made this remote spot surprisingly popular. I’ve visited several times and always had a brilliant time.

But this time wasn’t just about visiting—it was about completing a long-held goal. I had convinced 3 other paddlers to come with me. All 3 I had met through the Wild Women SUP Symposium . There was Barbara, Michelle and Helen (no 2). Paddlers that were up for pushing their limits and having some fun!

Day 1: Setting Off from Inverie

Our journey began from Inverie at mid-tide, aiming to reach the Narrows of Loch Nevis by high tide. The conditions? Flat water, no wind—absolute perfection.

We made swift progress down Loch Nevis, but soon a downwind breeze kicked in. It helped push us south—though we knew we’d be fighting it on the return. Still, the opportunity was too good to pass up.

We lunched on the northern side of the loch, at Camusrory, choosing not to head all the way to the bothy at Souries. Venison burgers (thanks to the Knoydart Foundation Shop) were devoured with joy. These burgers are very much part of the journey, and each time I make time to buy some and eat them on the side of the Loch.

Heading back north, the wind became more of a challenge. A few curse words were had, so we decided to cut our paddle short and we made camp just above a pebble beach on the eastern side of the Narrows. The breeze kept the midgies at bay (a welcome trade-off in Scotland!), and a short walk over the headland gifted me a stunning sunset view westward down Loch Nevis.

Day 2: The Portage to Loch Morar

Wild camping in late May means sunrise at 4 a.m.—so we were up early. Coffee and BJ’s legendary flapjacks powered us through a calm paddle through the Narrows, all the way to Tarbet.

Tarbet: Midgie Mayhem

Our arrival was met by clouds of midgies—perhaps fuelled by sheep droppings nearby. We moved quickly, loading up our gear and beginning the portage to Loch Morar. Thankfully, the midgies disappeared halfway through.

At this point, our plan was flexible. It was only 10 a.m., so instead of stopping, we decided to take advantage of the Easterly wind and paddle a quarter of the way up Loch Morar.

We enjoyed a fantastic downwind cruise past Swordland, before finding a perfect beach to set up camp—all before midday! After lunch (and a siesta!), Barbara and I climbed the hill behind camp. The view over Loch Morar was absolutely breathtaking—well worth the sweaty hike.

Final Day: A Dream Paddle to Morar

We rose early, struck camp, and paddled into a light Easterly wind—ideal for sending us straight down Loch Morar. Two hours of dreamy paddling brought us to the finish line.

We bypassed the islands and went directly to the end beach, where the only thing left on our itinerary was… the Mallaig Chip Shop. Priorities!

Reflections on the Knoydart Circuit

Three attempts later, I finally completed the Knoydart Circuit by paddle, and it was everything I hoped it would be. From flatwater bliss to wild camps and midgie madness, this trip had it all.

Here are a few quick takeaways:

Timing is everything. May gave us long days, warmer temps, and fewer midgies (mostly).
Read the weather / tides. This is an area that is extremely changable use the weather to your advantage, and the tides! Come along to the Wild Women SUP Symposium to learn more about this!
Don’t underestimate the portage. Be prepared, especially if carrying heavy gear.
Paddle with a group. It makes the logistics easier—and the memories richer.
Travel Light! No one wants to portage 50KG of equipment
The Mallaig Chip Shop is the perfect finish line.